V2XS – La Vie Au Maximum

Alvor 2025

I left my home in France in early November 2024, with no plan to return until mid-March 2025, hopefully avoiding all of the cold and wet weather. This is becoming a regular trip, with this being my fourth year of spending months at a time away from home. I load the van up with all the “toys” I’m going to play with while I’m away and this year these included :
– Trek electric mountain bike
– Sirrus road bike
– KTM enduro motorbike (with spare supermoto wheels for the road)

I spent about four weeks in Alvor before heading off to Maroc for the whole of December : https://v2xs.com/maroc-2024/.

Van loaded and ready for the off – plenty of room left !

In previous years my activities had revolved around running, walking, cycling and motorbiking and this year was shaping up to be much the same. Nothing wrong with that but, during my trip to Canada to visit Georgina earlier in the year, I had taken a surf lesson and made a note that it could be an interesting activity to pursue in Alvor. Alvor itself is right on the Algarve coast so there are plenty of options regarding water based activities. And as it turned out this year was rather dominated by water sports, in addition to the usual morning beach run, walking and cycling. I had used the KTM and Trek quite a lot in Maroc, but they barely got a look in once I was in Alvor.

I had taken a few surf lessons at Praia de Rocha in November and had a few more in Maroc. I was slowly improving, but with a long way to go – catching and “popping up” on the majority of waves, but only staying upright on the board for about 50% of those. Back in Alvor in January I decided to buy my own surf board to give me more flexibility on timing and location, compared to taking a lesson, or renting a board. I felt I had completed enough lessons to grasp the basics, what I needed was practise – and lots of it.

Over the Winter the surf conditions around Alvor are pretty good and usually allow surfing a few days of the week – depending on wind direction, wave sizes and the state of the tide. However, there are still opportunities to get out on the water even when the surf’s not up. I had initially booked my surf lessons through Carlos at the Rocha Surf Shop, above Praia de Rocha – they do great made to order Poke Bowls too ! He also offers “SUP Tours” – this is an abbreviation for a Stand Up Paddleboard. These are much bigger and more stable than a surf board and allow you to stand on top and paddle along with a single long paddle. They don’t get much demand for the tours in the winter and with the higher winds and rougher seas the conditions are not often suitable. However, he did manage to find an appropriate window and we met at the end of the beach in Alvor early one morning. There was hardly any wind, the sun was shining and the sea was like a mill pond – perfect.

He predicted it would take about 15 mins or so to gain a bit of confidence and get past the wobbly legs stage, and he was right. We paddled along the cliffs between Alvor beach and Praia de Vau, exploring some sea caves along the way – these were amazing and only accessible from the water.

The tour lasted a couple of hours and as we were nearing the end the wind started to get up and the sea became a bit choppy which made everything a lot more challenging. Carlos had fun surfing some of the waves, but I was in survival mode and eventually got caught out by a wave near the shore and fell in. Definitely worth doing it again – I was hoping to be able to persuade Sara to have a go during her forthcoming visit and had already told her to pack her wetsuit.

Liked it so much I bought a second hand SUP…

During another SUP session with a different instructor (Guilherme) we talked about other water sport options in Alvor. He mentioned windsurfing (been there, done that), kitesurfing (had lessons in Egypt but too risky for me) but also WingFoiling, which spiked my interest. The last windsurfing trip I did was to Narbonne last year and I was struck by the fact that the Wingfoilers outnumbered the windsurfers. So I asked Gui (pronounced Gee) about a Wingfoiling trial lesson…

Wingfoiling is apparently a lot easier to learn than windsurfing and, according to Gui, if you have a windsurfing background it would be no problem – I wasn’t so sure. Rather than going out on the sea he prefers to use the much calmer and safer environment inside the Alvor lagoon.

The lagoon can also be used at low tide, but you have to watch out for the exposed sand banks. The first lesson was learning to control the “wing” – this is similar to the kite that is used in kitesurfing, but you hold on to it directly rather than controlling it with long lines. This gives you much more control and direct interaction with the wind, but took some getting used to. I would have been happy to spend a lot longer practising with the wing, but Gui decided I had grasped the basics and went to get a board to get me out on the water. This was a large SUP board with lots of stability and was fitted with a centre fin. For the first couple of runs Gui was in the water, being dragged along behind by the board, in a perfect position to give advice and encouragement. For the next runs I was flying solo, but with a helmet intercom, so he could still give advice. In no time at all he went to get the real foil board, feeling confident I would be able to manage it. Up to this point I hadn’t got wet, but as soon as I started on the tiny foil board I started falling in. I could manage to get the board moving in a straight line but fell in every time I tried to turn it at the end of the run. Despite my failings it was great fun and reminded me of all the things I used to enjoy about windsurfing, without the major disadvantage of having to uphaul the sail after every tip-off. Instead, the inflatable wing just sits there bobbing about on the surface ready to go again.
Other than the water sports, life in Alvor followed a familar routine of a morning beach run, followed by coffee in the Plaza Cafe and then out for a long walk or bike ride. I would often meet up with Tim and Helen for lunch or dinner in one of the many Alvor restaurants.

Suspension bridge over the estuary at Portimao

Lots of Irish bars in Alvor, many of them serving real draught Guiness..

Huge salmon steak at Restaurant Bougavillia

Coffee stop on one of the few rides I managed on the KTM.

Lighthouse at the end of the Alvor breakwater.

Egg and ham toastie at the Plaza for breakfast.

Sunrise from my studio apartment, overlooking the cemetry…

Morning beach run along the beautiful and deserted Alvor beach.

Stormy seas at the breakwater, Praia de Rocha. Little boy sheltering, watching his Dad fishing…

“Slammed” and psychadelic Ape in Monchique…

Dinner at Wok Fusao – Asian fusion restaurant.

This year I had two visits from family, Felicity (#2 daughter) came out for a few days to get a break from the cold and dreary Manchester weather and sister Sara came for her usual 10 day winter break. Felicity and I managed a bit of walking and a trip up into the hills to Alferce to explore their “aerial walkway”. With Sara it was business as usual – morning run, followed by lots of walking, although I did persuade her to do a couple of SUP sessions and a cycle ride. I had hoped that she would be interested in trying her hand at surfing, but she refused – couldn’t see the appeal of getting soaked splashing around in the surf and she’d only just washed her hair ! Sara’s favourite walk is from Alvor to Portimao along the beach, but that’s only possible at low tide. It’s a long way 30,000+ steps, but the reward is the best mint choc chip ice cream you’ve ever tasted…

A bit of a rest after a long beach walk.

Dinner at Albar with a huge piece of banoffee pie for pud !

My apartment building viewed from the Plaza cafe.

Steak at Bougavillia, which they insist on serving with a ridiculous lump of butter ?

My reward for cycling up into the hills to Velochique – carrot and ginger soup and sweet potato chips.

Sundowner glass of wine overlooking Alvor harbour.

Refreshments with a view – Mar e Sol restaurant at Praia de Rocha.

Well that’s about it for another year, I’ll have been away from home for over four months – I’m hoping it will be acceptably warm by the time I get back. It was another fantastic winter break, and I’m looking forward to doing it all again next year – in fact I’ve already booked my apartment in Alvor !
I wonder if Hebe will remember who I am ?

Maroc 2024

My winter migration South followed the usual pattern this year – leaving France as soon as the weather turned cold and wet to head for the sun ! It was early November when I loaded the van with the KTM, Sirrus and Trek, plus the usual selection of tools and accessories (and a few clothes), and set off down through Spain to the south coast of Portugal – Alvor in the Algarve. Tim and Helen have an apartment in Alvor and spend 6+ months of the year there, rather than endure the usual dreary winter weather back home in Preston. I had booked a rental apartment for four weeks in Alvor and then planned to head even further south to Maroc for December, returning in early January for another couple of months before heading back home again. This post covers the Maroc part of the trip…

On previous trips to Maroc I have done a certain amount of touring around, either by bike or in the van, but this year I thought I would mostly stay in one place, which is one of my favourites – Essaouira on the West coast. It’s about 1500 Km from my place in Cahors to Alvor and the trip to Essaouira adds another 1200 Km to that, it’s a long way South and the December weather is perfect.

In previous years I have made a few stops on the way South, but this year I decided to try and do one stop, which was in Kenitra.

I stayed at the Relax Hotel, and arrived in time to have a very cold beer watching the sunset by the pool. This was my last beer for a month as alcohol is not easy to find in Maroc, and not very good when you find it. In previous years I have taken on the challenge of finding the back street hole-in-the-wall vendors doing an illicit trade in booze, but as the local stuff is not great I gave up in the end. And Dry December alliterates(!) better than Dry January.

You know you’re abroad when the road signs are like this…

As I had a lot of ground to cover I used the toll motorways along the West coast to head South. These are generally very good and little used, with regular service areas. I pulled into one for a coffee break and, apart from a few staff, it was completely empty – like the scene from some sort of scary movie where everyone has been abducted by aliens.

Once further South the motorway ended and I was on minor roads crossing some quite barren landscape – no services so coffee stops became a JetBoil affair.

On previous visits to Essaouira I have stayed in a cheap hotel, but as I was going to be there for a while I had booked an apartment. There was some confusion as to my arrival time – the owner was expecting to meet me at 2, but having driven all the way from Kenitra I didn’t arrive until a lot later. Turned out he had misunderstood my message saying I would need parking for my van (2m high).

Pleanty of parking right outside my apartment, and no height restriction !

The apartment was on the ground floor and facing South, with sun all day. There was no outside space, so I just got out my camping chair and pitched up on the pavement, much to the entertainment of the local children – most of the other apartments in the block seemed to be occupied by young families.

Celebratory, post unpacking, non-alcoholic drink outside the apartment.

I soon settled into my familair (some might say boring !) routine of getting up early, sometimes before dawn, going for a run along the beach followed by breakfast at a local cafe where I would come up with a plan for the day usually involving getting out on my electric mountain bike or the KTM. However, on this trip I had a few additional activities to pursue…
My first experience of surfing was during my visit to Canada to see Georgina earlier in the year. She had arranged a surf lesson, which I thoroughly enjoyed and was keen to do more. I had taken a couple of lessons in Alvor in November and was looking to continue in Maroc.
The second area of interest was Yoga. I have been running and cycling for many years (forever ?) but don’t really have any sort of stretching routine, so I was keen to try and develop some suitable exercises that I could do on my own in 15-20 minutes a day. I had been to one evaluation lesson in Portugal but there was a bit of a language barrier and I’m not sure the teacher really understood what I was after. I contacted three Yoga schools in Essaouira, one of which seemed to understand exactly what I wanted, so I booked in for some 1-to-1 sessions.
The last activity, which I hadn’t considered at the outset, was to go Quad biking on the dunes.

Yes, we’re definitely abroad and a long way South.

Exploring an abandoned palace on the Trek.

The nearest cafe to the apartment (about 50m away) was the O’Phare, run by two lovely ladies, so called because it looks out at the lighthouse. It was such a friendy and convenient place that I was there for breakfast every day!

Watching the sunset sitting on the pavement in front of the apartment.

Essaouira has a long strip of beautiful sandy beach, with the Northern half reserved for families and sun bathing. The southern half is where you can take horse and camel rides and where the water sports begin. The place is a Mecca for kite surfers as it is often windy and the prevailing wind blows along the beach, but is also very popular with surfers when less windy. The beach continues South of Essaouira and runs for almost 20 Km – endless and largely unspoilt sand (washed up plastic aplenty). Inland from this vast and empty beach is a huge expanse of sand dunes, about 5 Km wide – a wonderful play ground for anyone with the right toys. Although my Trek mountain bike is electric it quickly reached its (and my) limits in the dunes, so I had to be fairly careful when exploring and stick to the more established trails.

Playing in the dunes on the KTM was a different matter, but is still had its limits, as did I. I had fitted the KTM with a set of supermoto wheels running slick tyres – these are ideal on a race track or for enthusiastic trips to the coffee shop back home in Cahors, but not much use in deep sand. For a bit of fun I decided to try them anyway and found they worked amazingly well – lots of grip on the hard, wet sand on the beach with the tide out and even in soft sand they did a great job – floating on top of the sand rather than digging in.

If you manage to make it to the southern end of the beach, or the dunes, they give way to a rocky headland and perched on top of this is La Grotte cafe, which I call the Surf Shack – it’s little more than a shed and overlooks one of the local surf spots.

Made it to the Surf Shack on the slicks !

Great surf spot (if you know what you’re doing!)

Back at the apartment it was time to refit the original enduro wheels with knobby tyres…

Great for kite surfers, not so good for the trees

With the KTM switched to off road tyres I was able to make better progress through the dunes. The technique seemed to be to get up enough speed so that the front wheel would start to float across the sand, rather than digging in – but in this condition the bike doesn’t respond to steering inputs and you have to use your body weight to turn, or slow down a bit to regain grip at the front. This video was an attempt to give some impression of the dune riding experience, but it’s only GoPro footage and not up to my usual standard…

In deeper sand things get more difficult and it was very easy to get bogged down, usually when trying to climb a dune without enough momentum. Once the bike is stuck there is no option but to manhandle the bike round to head back down the dune, which is hard work. I wouldn’t want to attempt the dunes on a heavier bike, but I’m not a Dakar legend – they seem to manage OK.

While riding in the dunes I never saw another motorbike (perhaps because it’s a daft idea), but did see plenty of people out on quad bikes, and the occasional camel. The quad bikes were usually in a group being led by a guide and always looked to be going at a sedate pace. However, they were able to access parts of the dunes that I didn’t have the confidence (or ability?) to attempt, which piqued my interest.

I had some private Yoga sessions with Paola at her studio buried deep in the Essaouira Medina. These sessions were for her to explore what I could and couldn’t do and identify areas that I needed to work on with a view to creating a “sequence” I could use on my own. I have to say that these sessions were a real eye opener for me into the world of Yoga. In particular the use of controlled breathing techniques and meditation to listen to your body were very powerful and made a real impression on me. After a few sessions she put together two 15 minute sequences that we were able to practise together, and I have subsequently carried on doing on my own. I still have a long way to go with some of the poses, but was pleasantly surprised at what I was able to manage.

There are a plethora of water sports centres along the beach front in Essaouira and I had no idea which one to choose to talk about surf lessons. In the end, I simply walked into the nearest one to my apartment at the South end of the beach called KSE (Kite Surf Essaouira). The place was busy with young, tanned “surf dudes” waxing their equipment or getting ready to get out on the water. I was a bit anxious that they might not cater for someone older and incompetent, but they were very welcoming and explained the options – the prices for a private lesson were cheaper than the cost of a group lesson in Portugal! I initially booked a private lesson and subsequently had some group sessions with other people of mixed abilities. As a beginner you only surf in the “white water” – this is after the wave has broken and is rolling in towards the beach – it is very turbulent but still has plenty of power. A big advantage of this approach is that you are never out of your depth. You wade out with the board until you are waist deep, wait for a suitable wave, jump on the board and try to “catch” it. You start off lying face down on the board and paddling to catch the wave, then once you are on the wave you have to “pop up” to your feet and ride the wave into the shore. Or, if you’re a beginner you can just ride in lying on the board which is easier but still fun. Karim, my instructor, was incredibly patient and encouraging – he would hold the board for me to get on and into position, then push the board into the wave at the right moment. I have found surfing to be strangely addictive, because every time you ride a wave there is always something you could have done differently/better and you just want to get back out and do it again – in search of the “perfect” wave. It is also surprisingly tiring because after each ride you have to fight your way back out through the surf, dragging the board, to start again. And then you look a bit further out to the just breaking “green” waves and see the young dudes carving perfect bottom turns and generally ripping it up and realise you’ve got an awful long way to go..

Another glorious early morning beach run

Having explored as much of the dunes as I could on the Trek and KTM, I went to talk to one of the Quad Bike Tour outfits to see what they had to offer. I was afraid the ride would be a bit pedestrian and not very exciting, but they assured me it would be fun, so I booked a 3 hour guided trip for Christmas Day ! My guide was Mobarak, who turned out to be a lovely chap, but a bit of a nutter. We started off fairly gently and it took me a while to get used to the Quad – plenty of drive to get you across the soft sand, but it felt like there was no grip at the front end. I was slowing right down for the corners to avoid understeering off into the scenery, with my guide disappearing into the distance. I gradually got more used to the feeling and he gave me some tips – the trick seemed to be to use the front brake to load the front wheels on inital turn-in and then steer through the corner on the throttle. Great fun when you get it right but a bit scary. As I developed more confidence and picked up speed, he just went faster to notch it up a level and by the end we were flying. So much so that, when we got back, his quad was missing one of the headlight assemblies and neither of us had noticed it falling off – which explains why he looks a bit grumpy in the photo. What a fantastic way to spend Christmas Day !

After four weeks in Essaouira it was time to head back to Portugal, for which I simply followed the route in reverse, with an overnight stop in Kenitra. Arriving back in Portugal in early January I was quite shocked by the drop in temperature, maybe I should stay longer in Maroc ?
Already looking foward to getting back there again next year…

Vince 2024

As regular readers will know September is the month of our annual pilgrimage to the Spanish Pyrenees to take part in the VINCE navigation event. But there were a few big changes this year. Firstly, we had decided not to compete and to enter “tourist class” which meant we avoided the days of preparation during August in the lead up to the event and did not have to print out and laminate pages of maps. Secondly we decided to make more of the journey down to Spain – normally we meet up at my place, pile the bikes and gear into the vans and drive down to the event hotel in one day. This year we decided to ride down on bikes over the course of a week and take it in turns to drive the van which acted as a support vehicle. This became known as Dougie’s Turrs (use a Scottish accent for the correct pronunciation). This took a lot of planning and the number of participants varied from 3 and 9 as people dithered and fell off motorbikes ! We ended up with seven on the team (The Seven Desperados), with most people on off road/dual sport bikes and Peter and Phil on huge BMW GS1250 “two wheeled cars”.

Fully loaded van for the trip down to my place near Cahors…

No room for this monster in the van. Peter and Phil had to ride down…

The Turr started with a rendez-vous at my place near Cahors and we had people arriving by van, train, plane and bike – but all got here safely. We were all using an app called Life360 (which is excellent) and it was interesting to follow everyone’s progress as they converged towards south west France. I had hoped to do a barbeque but the weather had turned cold and damp after weeks of baking hot sunshine, so I made a traditional Cassoulet instead and it was excellent (even if I do say so myself!).

Barbeque on the terrace with Sam and Doug – the first of the team to arrive.

VIELHA

For the first leg the bikes went across country to Vielha in Spain for our first overnight stop. I was driving the van and went down the motorway. We had arranged a meet up for lunch south of St. Gaudens – the van was on time but the bikes were about half an hour late. No big deal but it showed the difficulty of estimating cross country travel times.

I had booked all the accommodation for the trip (for the five dirt bikers), with Peter and Phil sorting out their own arrangements. I had tried to book three twin rooms and wrote to each hotel to emphasise the importance of this – we are all good mates but draw the line at sharing a bed. I wasn’t surprised when we got to the first hotel and they tried to give us double rooms, but after stonewalling for a while I eventually got them to “upgrade” us to twin rooms and they didn’t charge any extra.

We had a congratulatory “Day 1 Completed” beer by the van in the car park and then walked into Vileha to find some dinner – a nice Tapas bar in the town recommended by the hotel, it was very good.

LLAVORSI

Here I had booked an apartment for two nights – cheaper than the luxury spa hotel (where Peter and Phil stayed) and with the benefit of secure underground parking. Unfortunately we couldn’t get access to the parking as the previous tenants had apparently wandered off with the remote – so the bikes ended up parked in the street outside.

I drew the short straw and had to sleep on the couch – actually I volunteered as I can sleep anywhere, unlike some of the “Princesses” on the team. It was a cold and damp ride over to Llavorsi and the weather forecast was pretty dire – in fact there were some very severe rainstorms in Spain at the time with serious flooding. Fortunately we managed to escape most of it.

The journey from Vielha was quite short and we met up in the car park outside the campsite to plan an afternoon ride. The dirt bikes did part of the “Smugglers Route” up towards Andorra with the GS boys doing a bit of road touring.

Stick technology saves the day. A lesson for Dave “The stupidity of buying cheap ebay crap is never forgotten”

The next day should have been a ride around the area but we split up into those who were prepared to brave the elements and Dougie and myself who had the day off – we spent a whole morning working out how to get our helmet headsets to talk to each other. It took hours but we got there eventually.

Game on at the tapas bar next to the apartment in Llavorsi.

Some interesting (?) beers available in the tapas bar…

ISABENA

The next leg was to a place we had stayed before for two nights, giving a free day for local riding/exploring. We all went together to a notable landmark – the Castillo de Fantova for a picnic lunch and bumped into the man himself Austin VINCE who was out running a “Mini Mondo” tour with other bikers.

Dinner at our hotel (Casa Custodio) in Isabena.

MAGALLON

I drove this leg and was able to find the place we were staying and get everyone checked in. I also managed to sort out where we could get a beer and something to eat in the evening – not easy as there was a village fete taking place that day. Parking the big van was also a challenge in the narrow village streets. We were only here one night but had a chance to explore the village and some of us were able to stay up late to watch the village queen being crowned.

QUINTANAR DE LA SIERRA

This was the final leg and the “dirt bikers” had the opportunity to do a long off road stretch using a trail that Austin had given us – and it was great. Sam was on van duty and together with the GS boys got to the hotel well before us, but then failed to sort out anywhere for us to eat or get a beer that evening !

If you count a breakdown as the vehicle won’t go unless you get some tools out, we had our first and only significant breakdown on this leg. We left early with the van but Peter and Phil had a more leisurely start, especially when Phil’s bike wouldn’t start due to a flat battery. The “power pack” that Peter was carrying that guarantees to start a 3 litre diesel didn’t work so they put out an SOS call to the support van. Fortunately Sam hadn’t got very far and was able to get back with jump leads to get the bike fired up. It seems Phil might have left his auxiliary lights on overnight – a bit embarrasing but not a serious problem. Dougie is still trying to work out how much to charge Phil for the breakdown service…

Quintanar was the base for the VINCE and was the end point of the first part of the tour. Sam, Peter and Phil were not doing the VINCE so stayed a couple of nights and then set off back to blighty. Martin did participate in the VINCE but then set off for Santander and the ferry home. This left Doug, Dave and myself with a further week to spend in Spain before heading back to my place.

For this year’s event Austin had introduced a “noise limit” to try to eliminate the noisy bikes that turn up every year and cause a nuisance to the locals. He hadn’t thought through how he was actually going to check the noise levels so it was fortunate for him that Dougie (ably assisted by Dave) stepped up and offered to provide a noise testing service. Despite the warnings from Austin in every communication he sent out about the event – out of over 100 bikes there were 15 that “failed” – those fitted with noisy aftermarket exhaust pipes. And what’s more the owners were proud of the fact they made more noise than anyone else. They were allowed to participate in the event but won’t be invited back next year…

Ride out with Sam covering some of the Good, the Bad and the Ugly hot spots.

Monastery where Clint Eastwood was nursed back to health.

Remains of Langstone bridge – blown up in the film.

It was a very pleasant change to do the VINCE on a non competitive basis and we had a great three days just enjoying the trails, stopping to admire the views and having tea breaks and picnics. The weather was very good too. Dougie had a couple of offs (put downs) but no harm done. Dave and his VINCE partner Sid didn’t fare so well. You may recall that last year Dave broke his collar bone, this year it was Sid’s turn and he collected some broken ribs – at least it happened on the last day so they did get some riding in.

Restaurant not open at Casa Ramon so we improvised dinner ourselves.

..and another. Great invention the jetboil…

We went to the prize giving dinner which was very entertaining as usual. We then spent another couple of days resting and riding around the area before setting off again.

Ride out with Dave to the “black lake” and sad hill.

Sad Hill beer – they think of everything…

The black lake – well brown lake really due to the colour of the sandstone.

Picnic in the shade at Sad Hill Cemetry.

TARAZONA

We were keen to do the long off road trail back to Magallon that we had used on the way here. The accommodation in Magallaon was fully booked but we got a place in Tarazona not too far away. Dougie and I did the long trail ride, which was just as good as the previous time.

oops. Minor off on one of the loose climbs in the woods.

A welcome beer in the evening sun outside our apartment in Tarazona.

Dave was in the van and arrived way before us, but also failed to sort out much of a plan for beer and skittles in the evening. On the plus side he did get some shopping which included some very welcome salad so we at least had something to eat – plus the usual beer and red wine of course. Once more I ended up on the couch, which was very comfortable.

Tarazon cathedral – heading out for breakfast…

OLIANA

The next leg was a road ride to Oliana, with me driving the van again. I had booked a shed at Camping Oliana and was able to get checked in and sorted out before the other two arrived. I even had cold beers and a Catalan fish and bean stew ready for them. Once again I was on the couch…

Campsite breakfast – scrambled eggs on toast..

Dougie seeking divine insipartion in an abandoned church.

En route to Cambrils for a coffee stop – it was closed !

We did some great trail riding on mostly familiar trails and made our regular pilgrimage up to the church on the hill above Oliana.

Generous measures in the campsite restaurant…

On the second day we visited the motorcycle museum just outside Oliana, which was fascinating – we’ve been there many times before but this was the first time it’s been open. We also took the van up to Andorra to seek out some tax free bargains in the motorbike shops – dreadful place for trying to park a big van and prices not much different to what you can find on line.

CAHORS

The journey back to my place from Oliana was about a five hour drive in the van using the motorways. Dougie and Dave took the back roads and went right through Andorra and over the pass at the top (5 degrees). This was all on road but still an epic ride and they eventually got back in the early evening after 8 hours in the saddle – welcomed of course by cold beers and nice food !

The end of the road – back home at last…

We took a run into Prayssac on Friday for the market and Dougie bought some eggs and Cepes for me to make him a Cepe Omelette to set him up for his long journey home…

VIDEOS

David O’Brien (Dangerous Dave) was supposed to be joining us on this trip, but a motorcycle accident in Montenegro left him with a broken foot and he was in bed recovering while we were out enjoying ourselves. We kept him posted on our progress and he was kind enough to create a song called “The Desperados” about our trip and also create some backing music which I was able to use in my videos.

A simple montage of photos from the trip

Dave “Clothead” Heaton provided plenty of entertainment.

Sam’s Story…

The Desperados Video…

Canada 2024

I flew in to Paris after my UK trip and met up with Alexander, who had come up by train from Limoges. It wasn’t far from the airport to the place we were staying but neither of us fancied the walk with our travel bags, so we looked at other options. It seemed there was no easy way to get there (bus, tram, metro) other than a taxi. Alexander had the Uber App on his phone but his battery was flat, so we spent a while searching CDG airport for a power point. They have smart looking seats at the airport which provide a handy USB port, but none of them seemed to be connected. When we eventually did find a power socket there was already someone else using it to charge their phone… A short wait ensued until we could eventually get charged up and book a ride.

The next day we had a free day to explore Paris – I last visited years ago with Lucy and was interested to see what had changed. We again had a transport dilemma but decided the best option was to get an Uber out to the airport and then get the Metro into the centre. We then spent the day wandering about – lots of preparations going on for the Olympics, and generally the city seemed quite a bit cleaner and tidier than I remembered.

I had intended to pay a return visit to the Musee d’Orsay to see their fabulous exhibitions of impressionist art, but unfortunately I left it too late and it was fully booked. However, we did stumble across the Banksy Gallery, which was deserted and very interesting.

Not far from the gallery we stopped for lunch at a cafe and I was amused to see that one of the street signs had some Banksy-esque grafitti on it…

Pompidou Center – a lot tidier than my last visit

Back to the hotel and out for more beer. Nice to get a Pelforth Brune – not sure what I would be able to find in Canada ?

Early start the next day and an Uber back to the airport for our slightly delayed flight. The 10 hour flight was fine, despite being in economy with seats I could barely fit into. This was with Air France and they had a very good in-flight entertainment system – a screen directly in front of you with a huge choice of films. I didn’t watch any of those but was interested in the real time flight data and the cameras looking out at the view from the plane. The downward facing camera was great to watch going over Greenland and the forward facing one was good fun on take off and landing.

Georgina picked us up from the airport and took us back to her place in south east Vancouver, a suburb called Langley.

Here is a map to get some bearings on where we were (Vancouver – yellow star) and where George had arranged for us to visit (Kelowna, Whistler and Tofino – green stars).

I didn’t find Vancouver especially interesting – it seemed very modern and busy, like any major city, and I’ve turned into a bit of a country bumpkin used to a slower pace of life. Fortunately, apart from a few much needed rest days, we didn’t spend much time in Vancouver as George had planned to visit three of her favourite destinations that are easily accessible from the city (a few hours drive away). This turned out to be a very good plan and it was great to experience a range of different places and activities in a short space of time – we were there almost two weeks in total.

Kelowna

Kelowna is out to the East of Vancouver, is dominated by its proximity to the absolutely huge Okanagan Lake and has a much more relaxed feeling to it. We arrived in the early afternoon and checked in to our AirBnB which was very comfortable. It was then off to the lake to pick up a speedboat that George had hired for us for a few hours. She had wanted to book jet skis, but the boat rental company had been hit by the wild fires that swept though here last year and was only offering a limited choice of boats. In addition to the boat George had also booked a “tube”, which is a big floaty thing that you can ride on and be towed along by the boat. We had ridden one of these once in Egypt so knew they were great fun, but we decided that the water was a bit too chilly ! Alexander had bought some cheap fishing gear and was keen to see if he could catch something.

The boat handover was very straightforward once we had completed the liability waiver forms – basically you’re on your own, we’re not responsible for anything. I volunteered to be the main driver and was asked if I’d handled a speedboat before. “No” I said, but it didn’t seem to matter – I was then given a 30 second introduction to a myriad of controls and instructions on what to do to avoid being poisoned by exhaust fumes or allowing a build up of explosive gases in the “bilge”, whatever that is ? So with absolutely no idea at all we pottered out of the harbour. One thing became immediately apparent, at low speed the steering has virtually no effect on the direction the boat is going. I had to keep a watch on the depth gauge to avoid grounding as it was very shallow (the one thing I did remember from the safety briefing).

Once I had pottered out past the marker buoys, at which point you are allowed to pick up speed, George asked to “have a go”. I was more than happy to hand over as I wasn’t feeling comfortable with something that felt out of control. I went and sat in one of the seats up front. And then all hell broke loose – George opened the taps and set off flying down the lake. I got bounced out of my seat and ended up sprawled on the floor of the boat with the children laughing their heads off. Having previously rented a jet-ski, George clearly had a taste for speed and, once you got used to it, it was great fun.

Once I had got more used to the controls I also had some fun piloting the thing. As well as the throttle it also has a trim control that alters the angle of attack to the waves. By playing with the two you can get the boat up on the plane and then it really flies. We didn’t spend all of our time charging about as Alexander wanted to fish so we spent quite a while just trolling along the shallower water near the banks, admiring the enormous, multi-million dollar properties lining the waterfont.

Much to everyone’s surprise we managed to catch three trout, which we put back as we had no means of dealing with them on the boat.

The next day Georgina had organised a “Wine Tour” – a very popular thing out here and they have a lot of “wineries” in close proximity. I wasn’t drinking but Alexander and Georgina made a very good effort, I think we visited six different places and tried 5 or 6 wines in each of them.

It was very interesting talking to the vignerons and comparing their approach to what we experience in France. What we are used to here is having a specific wine tied to a particular region and the vigneron has to work to precise rules regarding the grape varieties etc in order to received the AOC Cahors label, for example. So the differences between Cahors producers will largely be down to their “terroir” and the post processing that they do with the wine, such as ageing in oak barrels. The big difference in Kelowna was that there are no rules so every winery is free to make whatever wine they wish and they do a lot of experimenting. This made it interesting because of the variety available and explains why the tasting makes sense – you can try a few and see what you like. I think the hosts quite enjoyed having visitors who could talk a little bit about wine and ask lots of questions and we usually ended up getting an extra taste or two.

We did buy a few bottles of wine, but not many as it was extremely expensive compared to what we are used to here. Mind you, that seemed to be the case with most things we were buying in Canada – apparently they get paid more than we do ?

Fort Langley

Back in Vancouver for a rest day, Alexander and I walked to Fort Langley – originally a trading post on the river, but now a pleasant suburb of Vancouver. It was Canada Day so there were a lot of people about. Alexander brought his fishing rod and had a go in the river, but it was very murky and he didn’t catch anything.

I was a bit concerned at the outset that the portion sizes in Canada would be enormous and unhealthy. This was based on my very limited experience in America on a business trip. Stopping at a chain restaurant for a burger and chips (already more than enough for me), I was asked “Y’all want that biggie size ?”. So when we went into a restaurant in Canada I always asked about the portion sizes in advance – much to Georgina’s embarassment. In actual fact, although the unhealthy, belt-packing options were available, everywhere offered a big choice of very reasonable sized healthy choices too.

Whistler

Our next destination was Whistler, which is a popular ski resort to the North of Vancouver. Getting there involves a delightful drive along the “sea to sky” highway. In fact we were staying in Whistler but our destination was a bit further North as we wanted to walk a mountain trail up to a glacial lake. This does require some planning as you have to book in advance as they restrict the number of people on the trail at any one time to control the environmental impact. In addition we had to be equipped with bear sprays and air horns in case we encountered something big and furry.

We actually saw two glacial lakes on the walk and they have a distinctive blue colour, which is apparently casued by tiny particles of rock that are eroded by the action of the glacier.

In the left centre of the above picture you can just make out the edge of the glacier, which is absolutely huge, but hidden from view over the top of the mountain.

This was early July and it was amazing to see a glacier and so much snow. We stayed the night in Whistler and headed back in the morning, but stopped off at an out-of-the-way cafe for brunch. It was excellent…

Tofino

After another rest day in Vancouver, we were off again, this time heading West to a surfing town called Tofino. This is on Vancouver Island which meant catching a ferry.

Fery terminal – try saying that with a mouthful of biscuits.

Georgina had booked a surf lesson for us with the Pacific Surf School, which was the first time for any of us. I was really looking forward to it as I have done a fair bit of windsurfing but never tried a surf board on its own. We had to get kitted up with wetsuits as the water was quite chilly and have a briefing about safety and technique. This was followed by some instruction on the beach and then some warm up exercises before we were allowed out into the surf. There was a photographer on hand to capture the action…

After what seemed like about 20 minutes we were called back to the beach. I thought we were just going to have a break, but it turned out we had been surfing for an hour – so much fun !

In need of some sustenance we headed into Tofino to get some lunch and stopped at “Big Daddy’s Fish Fry” which served up a very nice looking fish and chips for the children – I had a salad…

In the evening we found quite a posh restaurant which, like many of the bars and restaurants here, didn’t have wifi. Once again I found a healthy option…

On our last night in Tofino we bought some food to self cater at our AirBnB and Alexander cooked some excellent steaks on the barbecue.

Back in Vancouver there was one more rest day then it was time to head back home. Cody and George decided it would be a good idea to head out for breakfast as they particularly wanted Alexander to try the Canadian special of pancakes with maple syrup and crispy bacon. I think the place was called Denny’s and seemed to be a classic “diner style” cafe with a massive menu choice. Cody went for the full monty, closely folowed by Alexander with all his pancakes – I had an omelette and fruit, which was great.

The flight back was long, but uneventful – probably a bit easier as we knew what to expect and Alexander had all the films lined up that he wanted to watch. We had a few hours to kill in Paris before catching a train down to Limoges.

Back in Limoges we managed to keep going until 8pm, by which time we had been up for 28 hours. The jet lag didn’t seem to be too much of a problem on the way there, but coming back it took several days to adapt. It was nice to see Hebe again after so much time away and we managed an early morning walk…

Huge thank you to Georgina for organising a fantastic trip.

UK Trip June 2024

Having been rather disappointed with the poor weather on my last UK visit, I decided to schedule my 2024 trip for June, but it wasn’t a big improvement. Like most of the rest of Europe the summer seemed very late in arriving this year. In another change to routine I decided to do the trip largely using public transport, which actually worked out pretty well. Having dropped Hebe Dog off with Alexander and Laurena in Limoges I flew from Limoges to Manchester with RyanAir to spend a few days with Felicity.

At our favourite Italian restaurant “Porada”,

This was in a TGI Fridays and I had no idea it would be so BIG !

As usual, I went for the healthy option…

Eggs Benedict at my favourite breakfast Cafe in Manchester “Crumbs 102”

On my last evening in Manchester I found myself on my own as Felicity had to go to work (a night shift as a Senior Midwife), so I set out to find a traditional English pub for a pint – one of the two things I miss about living in France. A quick Google suggested a couple of interesting options…

Front entrance of the pub, apparently a converted house.

Back to TGI Friday’s for dinner (right next to the Premier Inn I was staying in) I wanted to have another beer but, as seems very common these days, there are a lot of lager and cider options but no proper beer. I had to settle for a Guinness instead.

With my meal I asked if I could have a glass of red wine, but was informed they had run out of wine glasses. “That’s OK I’m not fussy” I said, and they proceeded to serve me with what seemed like half a pint of red wine…

Next stop on my tour was visiting Chris and Corinne near Newcastle. I caught a bus from the hotel into the centre of Manchester and then a train to Newcastle. It was a chilly morning and I couldn’t help noticing a lot of scantily clad young ladies arriving into Manchester. It was “Party in the Park” apparently ?

Durham Cathedral from the train – once a very familair sight.

One of the first items on the agenda chez Chris was a tour of the latest improvements. You may recall they had recently had a loft extension, creating a huge amount of additional space and I had spent time helping with insulation and plaster-boarding on previous visits. Access to the new upstairs space had been with a ladder, but this wasn’t going to be a long term solution. Chris had looked at buying a kit of parts to assemble a staircase, but wasn’t happy with the quality or appearance. So he decided to make the stairs himself. This first required creating a 3D design on his computer, then buying pieces of raw oak timber to be cut and machined into the right shapes and pieces to make the stair jigsaw fit together. He used a CNC milling machine to cut out the pieces and the joints so they would all fit together with no visible external fixing. He then had to assemble it all and get it into place. The result is absolutely stunning and the quality is superb. He is rightly very proud of the new stairs…

External viw of the house showing the new extension and the end wall of triple glazed glass.

As usual there was a long list of jobs to get on with around the farm, including :

Getting a new bale for the little horses
Making and painting re-inforcing pieces for the barn roof (to withstand the extra load of new solar panels)
Fix the animal trailer ready for sale
Clean up the horse box ready for sale
Muck out the barn and transport the muck to the muck pile
Fix the starting problem with the JCB
Make some new barn doors
Add weather protection to the barn walls
Try to find time for a beer in the sunshine…

Machining re-inforcing bars for the barn roof.

Traing/exercise time for the little horses. Ginger Tom in the centre supervising…

Fixing the brakes on the animal trailer.

Adding weather protection to the barn walls to keep the rain (and snow) out.

You can’t just get on and make a barn door, you have to design it in 3D first…

While out for my morning run I discovered a crow with a damaged wing. Chris nursed it back to health and released it.

Oops ! The muck bin is too heavy for the trailer and quad.

Massive fuel leak from the sedimenter patched up with araldite…

Aha ! This hole in the starter motor should have a pivot bolt in it, but it’s fallen out. No wonder it had trouble starting.

Chris and Corinne enjoying the evening sun.

Sara came to collect me from Newcastle, so while we were all together we took the opportunity to go out for lunch at the Riverview Cafe, where they do a huge selection of enormous cakes…

Sara lives in Preston and is now retired and has recently purchased a static caravan near Keswick in the Lake District. She divides her time between Grandma duties and trying to walk as many of the Wainwrights as she can. So for my visit there was a lot of walking to do, although I did help out with a bit of baby sitting too.

The next one is at the end of that ridge in the distance..

Next stop was Sussex to see Lucy and family and to visit Nanna. I had booked a train from Preston to London but I received a notification an hour before to say it had been cancelled. Fortunately I was able to switch to one an hour later, so no harm done. On the train they did announce that we might be able to claim compensation for the delay so I filled out an on-line form and thought no more about it – I hadn’t been inconvenienced that much really. Much to my surprise a week or so later I received a full refund for the train ticket, so the journey was free !

Hollie working on writing letters ready for starting school…

Early morning sunshine in Lucy’s garden…

From Lucy, I caught the train to Gatwick to get an EasyJet flight to Paris, where I was meeting up with Alexander before heading off to Canada to visit Georgina, but that’s for another post…