As regular readers will know September is the month of our annual pilgrimage to the Spanish Pyrenees to take part in the VINCE navigation event. But there were a few big changes this year. Firstly, we had decided not to compete and to enter “tourist class” which meant we avoided the days of preparation during August in the lead up to the event and did not have to print out and laminate pages of maps. Secondly we decided to make more of the journey down to Spain – normally we meet up at my place, pile the bikes and gear into the vans and drive down to the event hotel in one day. This year we decided to ride down on bikes over the course of a week and take it in turns to drive the van which acted as a support vehicle. This became known as Dougie’s Turrs (use a Scottish accent for the correct pronunciation). This took a lot of planning and the number of participants varied from 3 and 9 as people dithered and fell off motorbikes ! We ended up with seven on the team (The Seven Desperados), with most people on off road/dual sport bikes and Peter and Phil on huge BMW GS1250 “two wheeled cars”.
The Turr started with a rendez-vous at my place near Cahors and we had people arriving by van, train, plane and bike – but all got here safely. We were all using an app called Life360 (which is excellent) and it was interesting to follow everyone’s progress as they converged towards south west France. I had hoped to do a barbeque but the weather had turned cold and damp after weeks of baking hot sunshine, so I made a traditional Cassoulet instead and it was excellent (even if I do say so myself!).
VIELHA
For the first leg the bikes went across country to Vielha in Spain for our first overnight stop. I was driving the van and went down the motorway. We had arranged a meet up for lunch south of St. Gaudens – the van was on time but the bikes were about half an hour late. No big deal but it showed the difficulty of estimating cross country travel times.
I had booked all the accommodation for the trip (for the five dirt bikers), with Peter and Phil sorting out their own arrangements. I had tried to book three twin rooms and wrote to each hotel to emphasise the importance of this – we are all good mates but draw the line at sharing a bed. I wasn’t surprised when we got to the first hotel and they tried to give us double rooms, but after stonewalling for a while I eventually got them to “upgrade” us to twin rooms and they didn’t charge any extra.
We had a congratulatory “Day 1 Completed” beer by the van in the car park and then walked into Vileha to find some dinner – a nice Tapas bar in the town recommended by the hotel, it was very good.
LLAVORSI
Here I had booked an apartment for two nights – cheaper than the luxury spa hotel (where Peter and Phil stayed) and with the benefit of secure underground parking. Unfortunately we couldn’t get access to the parking as the previous tenants had apparently wandered off with the remote – so the bikes ended up parked in the street outside.
I drew the short straw and had to sleep on the couch – actually I volunteered as I can sleep anywhere, unlike some of the “Princesses” on the team. It was a cold and damp ride over to Llavorsi and the weather forecast was pretty dire – in fact there were some very severe rainstorms in Spain at the time with serious flooding. Fortunately we managed to escape most of it.
The journey from Vielha was quite short and we met up in the car park outside the campsite to plan an afternoon ride. The dirt bikes did part of the “Smugglers Route” up towards Andorra with the GS boys doing a bit of road touring.
The next day should have been a ride around the area but we split up into those who were prepared to brave the elements and Dougie and myself who had the day off – we spent a whole morning working out how to get our helmet headsets to talk to each other. It took hours but we got there eventually.
ISABENA
The next leg was to a place we had stayed before for two nights, giving a free day for local riding/exploring. We all went together to a notable landmark – the Castillo de Fantova for a picnic lunch and bumped into the man himself Austin VINCE who was out running a “Mini Mondo” tour with other bikers.
MAGALLON
I drove this leg and was able to find the place we were staying and get everyone checked in. I also managed to sort out where we could get a beer and something to eat in the evening – not easy as there was a village fete taking place that day. Parking the big van was also a challenge in the narrow village streets. We were only here one night but had a chance to explore the village and some of us were able to stay up late to watch the village queen being crowned.
QUINTANAR DE LA SIERRA
This was the final leg and the “dirt bikers” had the opportunity to do a long off road stretch using a trail that Austin had given us – and it was great. Sam was on van duty and together with the GS boys got to the hotel well before us, but then failed to sort out anywhere for us to eat or get a beer that evening !
If you count a breakdown as the vehicle won’t go unless you get some tools out, we had our first and only significant breakdown on this leg. We left early with the van but Peter and Phil had a more leisurely start, especially when Phil’s bike wouldn’t start due to a flat battery. The “power pack” that Peter was carrying that guarantees to start a 3 litre diesel didn’t work so they put out an SOS call to the support van. Fortunately Sam hadn’t got very far and was able to get back with jump leads to get the bike fired up. It seems Phil might have left his auxiliary lights on overnight – a bit embarrasing but not a serious problem. Dougie is still trying to work out how much to charge Phil for the breakdown service…
Quintanar was the base for the VINCE and was the end point of the first part of the tour. Sam, Peter and Phil were not doing the VINCE so stayed a couple of nights and then set off back to blighty. Martin did participate in the VINCE but then set off for Santander and the ferry home. This left Doug, Dave and myself with a further week to spend in Spain before heading back to my place.
For this year’s event Austin had introduced a “noise limit” to try to eliminate the noisy bikes that turn up every year and cause a nuisance to the locals. He hadn’t thought through how he was actually going to check the noise levels so it was fortunate for him that Dougie (ably assisted by Dave) stepped up and offered to provide a noise testing service. Despite the warnings from Austin in every communication he sent out about the event – out of over 100 bikes there were 15 that “failed” – those fitted with noisy aftermarket exhaust pipes. And what’s more the owners were proud of the fact they made more noise than anyone else. They were allowed to participate in the event but won’t be invited back next year…
It was a very pleasant change to do the VINCE on a non competitive basis and we had a great three days just enjoying the trails, stopping to admire the views and having tea breaks and picnics. The weather was very good too. Dougie had a couple of offs (put downs) but no harm done. Dave and his VINCE partner Sid didn’t fare so well. You may recall that last year Dave broke his collar bone, this year it was Sid’s turn and he collected some broken ribs – at least it happened on the last day so they did get some riding in.
We went to the prize giving dinner which was very entertaining as usual. We then spent another couple of days resting and riding around the area before setting off again.
TARAZONA
We were keen to do the long off road trail back to Magallon that we had used on the way here. The accommodation in Magallaon was fully booked but we got a place in Tarazona not too far away. Dougie and I did the long trail ride, which was just as good as the previous time.
Dave was in the van and arrived way before us, but also failed to sort out much of a plan for beer and skittles in the evening. On the plus side he did get some shopping which included some very welcome salad so we at least had something to eat – plus the usual beer and red wine of course. Once more I ended up on the couch, which was very comfortable.
OLIANA
The next leg was a road ride to Oliana, with me driving the van again. I had booked a shed at Camping Oliana and was able to get checked in and sorted out before the other two arrived. I even had cold beers and a Catalan fish and bean stew ready for them. Once again I was on the couch…
We did some great trail riding on mostly familiar trails and made our regular pilgrimage up to the church on the hill above Oliana.
On the second day we visited the motorcycle museum just outside Oliana, which was fascinating – we’ve been there many times before but this was the first time it’s been open. We also took the van up to Andorra to seek out some tax free bargains in the motorbike shops – dreadful place for trying to park a big van and prices not much different to what you can find on line.
CAHORS
The journey back to my place from Oliana was about a five hour drive in the van using the motorways. Dougie and Dave took the back roads and went right through Andorra and over the pass at the top (5 degrees). This was all on road but still an epic ride and they eventually got back in the early evening after 8 hours in the saddle – welcomed of course by cold beers and nice food !
We took a run into Prayssac on Friday for the market and Dougie bought some eggs and Cepes for me to make him a Cepe Omelette to set him up for his long journey home…
VIDEOS
David O’Brien (Dangerous Dave) was supposed to be joining us on this trip, but a motorcycle accident in Montenegro left him with a broken foot and he was in bed recovering while we were out enjoying ourselves. We kept him posted on our progress and he was kind enough to create a song called “The Desperados” about our trip and also create some backing music which I was able to use in my videos.