Vince 2024

As regular readers will know September is the month of our annual pilgrimage to the Spanish Pyrenees to take part in the VINCE navigation event. But there were a few big changes this year. Firstly, we had decided not to compete and to enter “tourist class” which meant we avoided the days of preparation during August in the lead up to the event and did not have to print out and laminate pages of maps. Secondly we decided to make more of the journey down to Spain – normally we meet up at my place, pile the bikes and gear into the vans and drive down to the event hotel in one day. This year we decided to ride down on bikes over the course of a week and take it in turns to drive the van which acted as a support vehicle. This became known as Dougie’s Turrs (use a Scottish accent for the correct pronunciation). This took a lot of planning and the number of participants varied from 3 and 9 as people dithered and fell off motorbikes ! We ended up with seven on the team (The Seven Desperados), with most people on off road/dual sport bikes and Peter and Phil on huge BMW GS1250 “two wheeled cars”.

The route…
Fully loaded van for the trip down to my place near Cahors…
No room for this monster in the van. Peter and Phil had to ride down…

The Turr started with a rendez-vous at my place near Cahors and we had people arriving by van, train, plane and bike – but all got here safely. We were all using an app called Life360 (which is excellent) and it was interesting to follow everyone’s progress as they converged towards south west France. I had hoped to do a barbeque but the weather had turned cold and damp after weeks of baking hot sunshine, so I made a traditional Cassoulet instead and it was excellent (even if I do say so myself!).

Barbeque on the terrace with Sam and Doug – the first of the team to arrive.
Bikes unloaded and stored by the pool.

VIELHA

For the first leg the bikes went across country to Vielha in Spain for our first overnight stop. I was driving the van and went down the motorway. We had arranged a meet up for lunch south of St. Gaudens – the van was on time but the bikes were about half an hour late. No big deal but it showed the difficulty of estimating cross country travel times.

Lunch stop

I had booked all the accommodation for the trip (for the five dirt bikers), with Peter and Phil sorting out their own arrangements. I had tried to book three twin rooms and wrote to each hotel to emphasise the importance of this – we are all good mates but draw the line at sharing a bed. I wasn’t surprised when we got to the first hotel and they tried to give us double rooms, but after stonewalling for a while I eventually got them to “upgrade” us to twin rooms and they didn’t charge any extra.

View from the hotel in Vielha

We had a congratulatory “Day 1 Completed” beer by the van in the car park and then walked into Vileha to find some dinner – a nice Tapas bar in the town recommended by the hotel, it was very good.

Beers in the hotel car park, Vielha.
Dinner in Vielha.

LLAVORSI

Here I had booked an apartment for two nights – cheaper than the luxury spa hotel (where Peter and Phil stayed) and with the benefit of secure underground parking. Unfortunately we couldn’t get access to the parking as the previous tenants had apparently wandered off with the remote – so the bikes ended up parked in the street outside.

Street parking in Llavorsi.

I drew the short straw and had to sleep on the couch – actually I volunteered as I can sleep anywhere, unlike some of the “Princesses” on the team. It was a cold and damp ride over to Llavorsi and the weather forecast was pretty dire – in fact there were some very severe rainstorms in Spain at the time with serious flooding. Fortunately we managed to escape most of it.

Cold and damp ride over to Llavorsi.

The journey from Vielha was quite short and we met up in the car park outside the campsite to plan an afternoon ride. The dirt bikes did part of the “Smugglers Route” up towards Andorra with the GS boys doing a bit of road touring.

Rendez-vous next to Camping Llavorsi.
On the smugglers route.
Lunch with a view.
Stick technology saves the day. A lesson for Dave “The stupidity of buying cheap ebay crap is never forgotten”

The next day should have been a ride around the area but we split up into those who were prepared to brave the elements and Dougie and myself who had the day off – we spent a whole morning working out how to get our helmet headsets to talk to each other. It took hours but we got there eventually.

An Englishman abroad…
Game on at the tapas bar next to the apartment in Llavorsi.
Some interesting (?) beers available in the tapas bar…
Another Englishman abroad…
A bright start after all the rian…

ISABENA

The next leg was to a place we had stayed before for two nights, giving a free day for local riding/exploring. We all went together to a notable landmark – the Castillo de Fantova for a picnic lunch and bumped into the man himself Austin VINCE who was out running a “Mini Mondo” tour with other bikers.

Austin on the trail…
Castillo de Fantova.
Fantova.
Picnic at Fantova
Dinner at our hotel (Casa Custodio) in Isabena.

MAGALLON

I drove this leg and was able to find the place we were staying and get everyone checked in. I also managed to sort out where we could get a beer and something to eat in the evening – not easy as there was a village fete taking place that day. Parking the big van was also a challenge in the narrow village streets. We were only here one night but had a chance to explore the village and some of us were able to stay up late to watch the village queen being crowned.

Coffee stop en route to Magallon.
Beers in Magallon.
Dinner at the sports centre Magallon.
Parking in Magallon.

QUINTANAR DE LA SIERRA

This was the final leg and the “dirt bikers” had the opportunity to do a long off road stretch using a trail that Austin had given us – and it was great. Sam was on van duty and together with the GS boys got to the hotel well before us, but then failed to sort out anywhere for us to eat or get a beer that evening !

Lunch stop en route to Quintanar.

If you count a breakdown as the vehicle won’t go unless you get some tools out, we had our first and only significant breakdown on this leg. We left early with the van but Peter and Phil had a more leisurely start, especially when Phil’s bike wouldn’t start due to a flat battery. The “power pack” that Peter was carrying that guarantees to start a 3 litre diesel didn’t work so they put out an SOS call to the support van. Fortunately Sam hadn’t got very far and was able to get back with jump leads to get the bike fired up. It seems Phil might have left his auxiliary lights on overnight – a bit embarrasing but not a serious problem. Dougie is still trying to work out how much to charge Phil for the breakdown service…

Jump start required.

Quintanar was the base for the VINCE and was the end point of the first part of the tour. Sam, Peter and Phil were not doing the VINCE so stayed a couple of nights and then set off back to blighty. Martin did participate in the VINCE but then set off for Santander and the ferry home. This left Doug, Dave and myself with a further week to spend in Spain before heading back to my place.

Hostal Casa Ramon in Quintanar.
Casa Ramon breakfast.

For this year’s event Austin had introduced a “noise limit” to try to eliminate the noisy bikes that turn up every year and cause a nuisance to the locals. He hadn’t thought through how he was actually going to check the noise levels so it was fortunate for him that Dougie (ably assisted by Dave) stepped up and offered to provide a noise testing service. Despite the warnings from Austin in every communication he sent out about the event – out of over 100 bikes there were 15 that “failed” – those fitted with noisy aftermarket exhaust pipes. And what’s more the owners were proud of the fact they made more noise than anyone else. They were allowed to participate in the event but won’t be invited back next year…

Ride out with Sam covering some of the Good, the Bad and the Ugly hot spots.
Monastery where Clint Eastwood was nursed back to health.
Remains of Langstone bridge – blown up in the film.
Sam riding high.

It was a very pleasant change to do the VINCE on a non competitive basis and we had a great three days just enjoying the trails, stopping to admire the views and having tea breaks and picnics. The weather was very good too. Dougie had a couple of offs (put downs) but no harm done. Dave and his VINCE partner Sid didn’t fare so well. You may recall that last year Dave broke his collar bone, this year it was Sid’s turn and he collected some broken ribs – at least it happened on the last day so they did get some riding in.

Necropilis near Casa Ramon.
Viewpoint.
Siesta.
Restaurant not open at Casa Ramon so we improvised dinner ourselves.
Jetboil stop.
Big country.
Afternoon tea (jetboil) stop…
..and another. Great invention the jetboil…
Prize giving dinner.

We went to the prize giving dinner which was very entertaining as usual. We then spent another couple of days resting and riding around the area before setting off again.

Ride out with Dave to the “black lake” and sad hill.
Sad Hill beer – they think of everything…
The black lake – well brown lake really due to the colour of the sandstone.
Picnic in the shade at Sad Hill Cemetry.
Sad Hill in Spanish.
Loading up for the trip from Quintanar to Tarazona.

TARAZONA

We were keen to do the long off road trail back to Magallon that we had used on the way here. The accommodation in Magallaon was fully booked but we got a place in Tarazona not too far away. Dougie and I did the long trail ride, which was just as good as the previous time.

oops. Minor off on one of the loose climbs in the woods.
Picnic lunch in the shade.
A welcome beer in the evening sun outside our apartment in Tarazona.

Dave was in the van and arrived way before us, but also failed to sort out much of a plan for beer and skittles in the evening. On the plus side he did get some shopping which included some very welcome salad so we at least had something to eat – plus the usual beer and red wine of course. Once more I ended up on the couch, which was very comfortable.

On the couch, as usual…
Tarazon cathedral – heading out for breakfast…

OLIANA

The next leg was a road ride to Oliana, with me driving the van again. I had booked a shed at Camping Oliana and was able to get checked in and sorted out before the other two arrived. I even had cold beers and a Catalan fish and bean stew ready for them. Once again I was on the couch…

Lovely big bed for Princess Dougie in our shed at Oliana.
I’m on the couch again…
Beer and wine…
Campsite breakfast – scrambled eggs on toast..
Our shed at Camping Oliana.
Dougie seeking divine insipartion in an abandoned church.
Bikes
En route to Cambrils for a coffee stop – it was closed !
On the ridge high up above Oliana.

We did some great trail riding on mostly familiar trails and made our regular pilgrimage up to the church on the hill above Oliana.

Church above Oliana.
Generous measures in the campsite restaurant…

On the second day we visited the motorcycle museum just outside Oliana, which was fascinating – we’ve been there many times before but this was the first time it’s been open. We also took the van up to Andorra to seek out some tax free bargains in the motorbike shops – dreadful place for trying to park a big van and prices not much different to what you can find on line.

In the motorcycle museum.
Giivng the bikes a much needed wash.

CAHORS

The journey back to my place from Oliana was about a five hour drive in the van using the motorways. Dougie and Dave took the back roads and went right through Andorra and over the pass at the top (5 degrees). This was all on road but still an epic ride and they eventually got back in the early evening after 8 hours in the saddle – welcomed of course by cold beers and nice food !

The end of the road – back home at last…

We took a run into Prayssac on Friday for the market and Dougie bought some eggs and Cepes for me to make him a Cepe Omelette to set him up for his long journey home…

Cepe omelette…

VIDEOS

David O’Brien (Dangerous Dave) was supposed to be joining us on this trip, but a motorcycle accident in Montenegro left him with a broken foot and he was in bed recovering while we were out enjoying ourselves. We kept him posted on our progress and he was kind enough to create a song called “The Desperados” about our trip and also create some backing music which I was able to use in my videos.

A simple montage of photos from the trip
Dave “Clothead” Heaton provided plenty of entertainment.
Sam’s Story…
The Desperados Video…


Canada 2024

Surf Dudes in Tofino

I flew in to Paris after my UK trip and met up with Alexander, who had come up by train from Limoges. It wasn’t far from the airport to the place we were staying but neither of us fancied the walk with our travel bags, so we looked at other options. It seemed there was no easy way to get there (bus, tram, metro) other than a taxi. Alexander had the Uber App on his phone but his battery was flat, so we spent a while searching CDG airport for a power point. They have smart looking seats at the airport which provide a handy USB port, but none of them seemed to be connected. When we eventually did find a power socket there was already someone else using it to charge their phone… A short wait ensued until we could eventually get charged up and book a ride.

Out for a beer…

The next day we had a free day to explore Paris – I last visited years ago with Lucy and was interested to see what had changed. We again had a transport dilemma but decided the best option was to get an Uber out to the airport and then get the Metro into the centre. We then spent the day wandering about – lots of preparations going on for the Olympics, and generally the city seemed quite a bit cleaner and tidier than I remembered.

Angel Bear, Gare du Nord
Sacre Coeur
Montmartre

I had intended to pay a return visit to the Musee d’Orsay to see their fabulous exhibitions of impressionist art, but unfortunately I left it too late and it was fully booked. However, we did stumble across the Banksy Gallery, which was deserted and very interesting.

Not far from the gallery we stopped for lunch at a cafe and I was amused to see that one of the street signs had some Banksy-esque grafitti on it…

Pompidou Center – a lot tidier than my last visit
Notre Dame – repairs nearing completion

Back to the hotel and out for more beer. Nice to get a Pelforth Brune – not sure what I would be able to find in Canada ?

Pelforth Brune

Early start the next day and an Uber back to the airport for our slightly delayed flight. The 10 hour flight was fine, despite being in economy with seats I could barely fit into. This was with Air France and they had a very good in-flight entertainment system – a screen directly in front of you with a huge choice of films. I didn’t watch any of those but was interested in the real time flight data and the cameras looking out at the view from the plane. The downward facing camera was great to watch going over Greenland and the forward facing one was good fun on take off and landing.

Georgina picked us up from the airport and took us back to her place in south east Vancouver, a suburb called Langley.

Georgina and Cody’s place.
Settling in with Asia.

Here is a map to get some bearings on where we were (Vancouver – yellow star) and where George had arranged for us to visit (Kelowna, Whistler and Tofino – green stars).

I didn’t find Vancouver especially interesting – it seemed very modern and busy, like any major city, and I’ve turned into a bit of a country bumpkin used to a slower pace of life. Fortunately, apart from a few much needed rest days, we didn’t spend much time in Vancouver as George had planned to visit three of her favourite destinations that are easily accessible from the city (a few hours drive away). This turned out to be a very good plan and it was great to experience a range of different places and activities in a short space of time – we were there almost two weeks in total.

Georgina’s Acura.

Kelowna

Kelowna is out to the East of Vancouver, is dominated by its proximity to the absolutely huge Okanagan Lake and has a much more relaxed feeling to it. We arrived in the early afternoon and checked in to our AirBnB which was very comfortable. It was then off to the lake to pick up a speedboat that George had hired for us for a few hours. She had wanted to book jet skis, but the boat rental company had been hit by the wild fires that swept though here last year and was only offering a limited choice of boats. In addition to the boat George had also booked a “tube”, which is a big floaty thing that you can ride on and be towed along by the boat. We had ridden one of these once in Egypt so knew they were great fun, but we decided that the water was a bit too chilly ! Alexander had bought some cheap fishing gear and was keen to see if he could catch something.

The boat handover was very straightforward once we had completed the liability waiver forms – basically you’re on your own, we’re not responsible for anything. I volunteered to be the main driver and was asked if I’d handled a speedboat before. “No” I said, but it didn’t seem to matter – I was then given a 30 second introduction to a myriad of controls and instructions on what to do to avoid being poisoned by exhaust fumes or allowing a build up of explosive gases in the “bilge”, whatever that is ? So with absolutely no idea at all we pottered out of the harbour. One thing became immediately apparent, at low speed the steering has virtually no effect on the direction the boat is going. I had to keep a watch on the depth gauge to avoid grounding as it was very shallow (the one thing I did remember from the safety briefing).

Once I had pottered out past the marker buoys, at which point you are allowed to pick up speed, George asked to “have a go”. I was more than happy to hand over as I wasn’t feeling comfortable with something that felt out of control. I went and sat in one of the seats up front. And then all hell broke loose – George opened the taps and set off flying down the lake. I got bounced out of my seat and ended up sprawled on the floor of the boat with the children laughing their heads off. Having previously rented a jet-ski, George clearly had a taste for speed and, once you got used to it, it was great fun.

Captain George.

Once I had got more used to the controls I also had some fun piloting the thing. As well as the throttle it also has a trim control that alters the angle of attack to the waves. By playing with the two you can get the boat up on the plane and then it really flies. We didn’t spend all of our time charging about as Alexander wanted to fish so we spent quite a while just trolling along the shallower water near the banks, admiring the enormous, multi-million dollar properties lining the waterfont.

Fishing
Got one !

Much to everyone’s surprise we managed to catch three trout, which we put back as we had no means of dealing with them on the boat.

Glorious weather.

The next day Georgina had organised a “Wine Tour” – a very popular thing out here and they have a lot of “wineries” in close proximity. I wasn’t drinking but Alexander and Georgina made a very good effort, I think we visited six different places and tried 5 or 6 wines in each of them.

Wine tasting room…

It was very interesting talking to the vignerons and comparing their approach to what we experience in France. What we are used to here is having a specific wine tied to a particular region and the vigneron has to work to precise rules regarding the grape varieties etc in order to received the AOC Cahors label, for example. So the differences between Cahors producers will largely be down to their “terroir” and the post processing that they do with the wine, such as ageing in oak barrels. The big difference in Kelowna was that there are no rules so every winery is free to make whatever wine they wish and they do a lot of experimenting. This made it interesting because of the variety available and explains why the tasting makes sense – you can try a few and see what you like. I think the hosts quite enjoyed having visitors who could talk a little bit about wine and ask lots of questions and we usually ended up getting an extra taste or two.

Lunch break overlooking the lake.
More tasting…

We did buy a few bottles of wine, but not many as it was extremely expensive compared to what we are used to here. Mind you, that seemed to be the case with most things we were buying in Canada – apparently they get paid more than we do ?

Fort Langley

Back in Vancouver for a rest day, Alexander and I walked to Fort Langley – originally a trading post on the river, but now a pleasant suburb of Vancouver. It was Canada Day so there were a lot of people about. Alexander brought his fishing rod and had a go in the river, but it was very murky and he didn’t catch anything.

River fishing.
Nice healthy lunch in Fort Langley

I was a bit concerned at the outset that the portion sizes in Canada would be enormous and unhealthy. This was based on my very limited experience in America on a business trip. Stopping at a chain restaurant for a burger and chips (already more than enough for me), I was asked “Y’all want that biggie size ?”. So when we went into a restaurant in Canada I always asked about the portion sizes in advance – much to Georgina’s embarassment. In actual fact, although the unhealthy, belt-packing options were available, everywhere offered a big choice of very reasonable sized healthy choices too.

Whistler

Our next destination was Whistler, which is a popular ski resort to the North of Vancouver. Getting there involves a delightful drive along the “sea to sky” highway. In fact we were staying in Whistler but our destination was a bit further North as we wanted to walk a mountain trail up to a glacial lake. This does require some planning as you have to book in advance as they restrict the number of people on the trail at any one time to control the environmental impact. In addition we had to be equipped with bear sprays and air horns in case we encountered something big and furry.

We actually saw two glacial lakes on the walk and they have a distinctive blue colour, which is apparently casued by tiny particles of rock that are eroded by the action of the glacier.

In the left centre of the above picture you can just make out the edge of the glacier, which is absolutely huge, but hidden from view over the top of the mountain.

This was early July and it was amazing to see a glacier and so much snow. We stayed the night in Whistler and headed back in the morning, but stopped off at an out-of-the-way cafe for brunch. It was excellent…

Tofino

After another rest day in Vancouver, we were off again, this time heading West to a surfing town called Tofino. This is on Vancouver Island which meant catching a ferry.

Fery terminal – try saying that with a mouthful of biscuits.
Tofino

Georgina had booked a surf lesson for us with the Pacific Surf School, which was the first time for any of us. I was really looking forward to it as I have done a fair bit of windsurfing but never tried a surf board on its own. We had to get kitted up with wetsuits as the water was quite chilly and have a briefing about safety and technique. This was followed by some instruction on the beach and then some warm up exercises before we were allowed out into the surf. There was a photographer on hand to capture the action…

Briefing

After what seemed like about 20 minutes we were called back to the beach. I thought we were just going to have a break, but it turned out we had been surfing for an hour – so much fun !

In need of some sustenance we headed into Tofino to get some lunch and stopped at “Big Daddy’s Fish Fry” which served up a very nice looking fish and chips for the children – I had a salad…

Beware sign…

In the evening we found quite a posh restaurant which, like many of the bars and restaurants here, didn’t have wifi. Once again I found a healthy option…

Another healthy option…

On our last night in Tofino we bought some food to self cater at our AirBnB and Alexander cooked some excellent steaks on the barbecue.

Morning run by the sea…

Back in Vancouver there was one more rest day then it was time to head back home. Cody and George decided it would be a good idea to head out for breakfast as they particularly wanted Alexander to try the Canadian special of pancakes with maple syrup and crispy bacon. I think the place was called Denny’s and seemed to be a classic “diner style” cafe with a massive menu choice. Cody went for the full monty, closely folowed by Alexander with all his pancakes – I had an omelette and fruit, which was great.

Cody’s belt packer
A plateful…
The light option.
Smile !
Cody’s monster truck…

The flight back was long, but uneventful – probably a bit easier as we knew what to expect and Alexander had all the films lined up that he wanted to watch. We had a few hours to kill in Paris before catching a train down to Limoges.

Breakfast in Paris…

Back in Limoges we managed to keep going until 8pm, by which time we had been up for 28 hours. The jet lag didn’t seem to be too much of a problem on the way there, but coming back it took several days to adapt. It was nice to see Hebe again after so much time away and we managed an early morning walk…

Huge thank you to Georgina for organising a fantastic trip.



UK Trip June 2024

Having been rather disappointed with the poor weather on my last UK visit, I decided to schedule my 2024 trip for June, but it wasn’t a big improvement. Like most of the rest of Europe the summer seemed very late in arriving this year. In another change to routine I decided to do the trip largely using public transport, which actually worked out pretty well. Having dropped Hebe Dog off with Alexander and Laurena in Limoges I flew from Limoges to Manchester with RyanAir to spend a few days with Felicity.

At our favourite Italian restaurant “Porada”,
This was in a TGI Fridays and I had no idea it would be so BIG !
As usual, I went for the healthy option…
Eggs Benedict at my favourite breakfast Cafe in Manchester “Crumbs 102”

On my last evening in Manchester I found myself on my own as Felicity had to go to work (a night shift as a Senior Midwife), so I set out to find a traditional English pub for a pint – one of the two things I miss about living in France. A quick Google suggested a couple of interesting options…

Front entrance of the pub, apparently a converted house.
A pint at last !

Back to TGI Friday’s for dinner (right next to the Premier Inn I was staying in) I wanted to have another beer but, as seems very common these days, there are a lot of lager and cider options but no proper beer. I had to settle for a Guinness instead.

With my meal I asked if I could have a glass of red wine, but was informed they had run out of wine glasses. “That’s OK I’m not fussy” I said, and they proceeded to serve me with what seemed like half a pint of red wine…

Next stop on my tour was visiting Chris and Corinne near Newcastle. I caught a bus from the hotel into the centre of Manchester and then a train to Newcastle. It was a chilly morning and I couldn’t help noticing a lot of scantily clad young ladies arriving into Manchester. It was “Party in the Park” apparently ?

Durham Cathedral from the train – once a very familair sight.

One of the first items on the agenda chez Chris was a tour of the latest improvements. You may recall they had recently had a loft extension, creating a huge amount of additional space and I had spent time helping with insulation and plaster-boarding on previous visits. Access to the new upstairs space had been with a ladder, but this wasn’t going to be a long term solution. Chris had looked at buying a kit of parts to assemble a staircase, but wasn’t happy with the quality or appearance. So he decided to make the stairs himself. This first required creating a 3D design on his computer, then buying pieces of raw oak timber to be cut and machined into the right shapes and pieces to make the stair jigsaw fit together. He used a CNC milling machine to cut out the pieces and the joints so they would all fit together with no visible external fixing. He then had to assemble it all and get it into place. The result is absolutely stunning and the quality is superb. He is rightly very proud of the new stairs…

Custom made oak staircase
Beautiful sleigh bed with a view…
External viw of the house showing the new extension and the end wall of triple glazed glass.

As usual there was a long list of jobs to get on with around the farm, including :

  • Getting a new bale for the little horses
  • Making and painting re-inforcing pieces for the barn roof (to withstand the extra load of new solar panels)
  • Fix the animal trailer ready for sale
  • Clean up the horse box ready for sale
  • Muck out the barn and transport the muck to the muck pile
  • Fix the starting problem with the JCB
  • Make some new barn doors
  • Add weather protection to the barn walls
  • Try to find time for a beer in the sunshine…
Meet Sqounky…
New bale delivery…
Smells like Christmas Cake…
The little horses like it though…
Machining re-inforcing bars for the barn roof.
Traing/exercise time for the little horses. Ginger Tom in the centre supervising…
Fixing the brakes on the animal trailer.
Adding weather protection to the barn walls to keep the rain (and snow) out.
You can’t just get on and make a barn door, you have to design it in 3D first…
While out for my morning run I discovered a crow with a damaged wing. Chris nursed it back to health and released it.
Oops ! The muck bin is too heavy for the trailer and quad.
Sh1t shovelling…
Trying to get the JCB started.
Massive fuel leak from the sedimenter patched up with araldite…
Aha ! This hole in the starter motor should have a pivot bolt in it, but it’s fallen out. No wonder it had trouble starting.
My reward…
Chris and Corinne enjoying the evening sun.

Sara came to collect me from Newcastle, so while we were all together we took the opportunity to go out for lunch at the Riverview Cafe, where they do a huge selection of enormous cakes…

Cakes galore…
Sensible option for me, as usual.
Chris fancied a pud…

Sara lives in Preston and is now retired and has recently purchased a static caravan near Keswick in the Lake District. She divides her time between Grandma duties and trying to walk as many of the Wainwrights as she can. So for my visit there was a lot of walking to do, although I did help out with a bit of baby sitting too.

Sara’s caravan in the lakes..
Another Wainwright knocked off…
The next one is at the end of that ridge in the distance..
In the woods.
Lots of great views.
Dog tired.
Reward !
Grandma with Freya.

Next stop was Sussex to see Lucy and family and to visit Nanna. I had booked a train from Preston to London but I received a notification an hour before to say it had been cancelled. Fortunately I was able to switch to one an hour later, so no harm done. On the train they did announce that we might be able to claim compensation for the delay so I filled out an on-line form and thought no more about it – I hadn’t been inconvenienced that much really. Much to my surprise a week or so later I received a full refund for the train ticket, so the journey was free !

Hollie working on writing letters ready for starting school…
Early morning sunshine in Lucy’s garden…

From Lucy, I caught the train to Gatwick to get an EasyJet flight to Paris, where I was meeting up with Alexander before heading off to Canada to visit Georgina, but that’s for another post…


Normandie 2024

This was a two week trip, split into two parts. The first week was with a bunch of old work buddies on even older bikes pottering round the lanes near Saint-Lo, the second week was dedicated to trail riding near Gace with my mate Dougie.

Normandie Old Duffers

What started as a one off post COVID get together has now turned into an annual event, involving five retired engineers getting together to bumble around on unreliable old bikes. Last year we visited the Isle of Man and next year we are planning to head over to Ireland, but this year’s destination was Normandie. I booked an AirBnB near Saint-Lo to the West of Caen, which was about a seven hour drive for me. Keith “Deadrock” was coming over from Northern Ireland but caught the ferry from Dublin to Cherbourg and actually had the shortest distance to cover on the road – just as well as it turned out as he had the oldest and least reliable bike, a 1953 Francis Barnett. As usual Dougie “Bert” was running a bike collection and delivery service with his van and made his way down from Yorkshire to catch the Portsmouth-Caen ferry. Richard “Strad” rode shotgun in the van and Dave “Clothead” let the train take the strain down to Portsmouth. They were due to catch the afternoon ferry but a hold up on the M40 meant they were delayed and had to get the overnight boat instead.

Our cottage near Saint-Lo
Deadrock made it on time…

Our visit happened to be a week or so before the 80th anniversary of the Normandie landings and there were a lot of preparations underway. Although we hadn’t planned it in advance we visited quite a number of the sites and museums of interest and learnt a lot about the preparations, the landings and the subsequent battles. This included visits to the American and German cemetries which were very poignant.

Bike fettling

On the first day we took a gentle run into Saint-Lo to make sure the bikes were working OK and to take a look at the market. Dave was also keen to buy some local ingredients for the Normandie Pork, cider and apple dish he had promised to cook that evening. I was expecting to see an old market square with historic buildings and hopefully a little cafe but in fact everything was relatively new – a result of the town being flattened during the war.

Saint-Lo market day.

The next day we set off for Omaha beach and the Overlord museum. The American forces had been allocated Omaha beach and it was here that the losses were heaviest, by far the worst of all the landing beaches. Once you see the beach you can understand why – the beach itself is flat but an escarpment rises up immediately and this was heavily mined and with German gun emplacements on the top.

Beautuful beach and deadly escarpement at Omaha.

Overlord was the code name for the overall landing operation and the museum of the same name gives a good overview of the preparations and progress of the landings.

Overlord museum.
Plenty of military hardware on show.

On subsequent days we visited the airborne museum which told the tale of the American parachutists and glider landings, followed by a visit to the American cemetry.

American cemetry.

Apart from a bit of fettling, the bikes had been running well, but it wasn’t to last. After visiting the cemetry Deadrock’s bike refused to start…

Breakdown…

Carrying a full set of tools for such eventualities, Keith was quickly able to partly dismantle the engine and diagnose the problem – the contact breaker points that provide the spark for the engine had broken. Initially it seemed that this was going to need a recovery operation, but on closer inspection it appeared that they might be temporarily held together with some tie wraps and a piece of wire.

Many hands make light work ?
Points patched together with tie-wraps and held in place with a bit of bent wire.

Amazingly the repair worked and held together all the way home, where Keith was able to make a more “permanent” repair using Araldite…

Araldite to the rescue…

We did have one other minor mechanical issue during the week, if not an actual breakdown. I noticed that my Honda 500 was “popping and banging” in the exhaust more than usual and on investigating discovered that the bolts holding the exhaust clamp in place had come loose – a nice easy fix.

Locknut on exhaust clamp stud just in case.

Keith’s Araldite repair seemed to hold up well for the rest of the week, but on his way back to Northern Ireland it broke down again in Dublin. Not clear yet if this was a new problem but he decided to leave the bike with friends and get the train home.

Dinner is served, Dave has nearly finished !

Part of the fun of these trips is that we take it in turns to cook for the group and most of us have little to no experience in the kitchen department. But with a bit of Googling for recipes and a “how hard can it be?” attitude some rather spendid dishes were produced

Chicken leg curry
Seafood pasta
Cod with vegatables

When we weren’t riding or fixing bikes we managed to amuse ourselves by discussing the finer points of bike design, or playing with the Scalextric that Dougie had brought with him.

If I can just make one of these in stainless steel…
Boys playing racing cars…

The third museum we went to visit was in Arromanches, which is where Gold beach was located and was the site of the construction of the Mulberry harbour which the museum covers in great detail. The landing stages which were made of steel have long since disappeared, but the breakwater can still be seen and even visited at low tide. The huge concrete sections were floated across the channel and sunk into position to provide protection from the open sea.

Section of the breakwater that formed part of the Mulberry harbour.

When we visited the American cemetry we weren’t able to get very close as it was being prepared for the 80th anniversary commemoration. In contrast the German cemetry which contained almost 12,000 bodies was deserted and we were able to walk all round it with a feeling of immense sadness.

German cemetry

We went to visit Bayeux and the tapestry, which was very well presented with an audio guide explaining the story told by each of the panels. I certainly learnt a lot.

Bayeau tapestry

On the way back home from Bayeux we got pulled over by the Gendarmerie who wanted to check our papers and tell Dougie off for standing on the footpegs of his bike to stretch his legs and back. Apparently you have to stay sitting down on a bike in France ?

Pulled over…

On our last riding day we took a run over to the west coast for a play in the sand in the sunshine.

On the beach…

It was raining on our last day so we elected to take the vans down to Le Mont Saint Michel.

Le Mont Saint Michel
…where some of the streets are very narrow…

And that was it for the Old Duffers week, so Richard, Keith and Dave set off for home and Dougie and myself relocated to our next AirBnB which was about an hour further south.

Normandie Trails

Dougie and I had previously been trail riding in Normandie on an event organised by Chris EVANS. This was some years ago and in November but our lingering memory of the trip was that there was mud everywhere. We had hoped that being nearly June the weather would be much imporved and that the trails would have dried out. Unfortunately that wasn’t the case and they were just as muddy as ever.

Our AirBnB base for trail riding.

The weather during out trail riding week was a bit mixed with rain and some sun, but the temperature was reasonable. When we are away on these types of trip we tend to take it one day at a time, depending on the weather and level of enthusiasm. Dougie is the master of the routes and usually plans out a possible ride in the evening ready for the next day. I think he also uses the route planning task as an excuse to get out of cooking duties – as with the previous week this was a self catering set up. The trails were very muddy and we were regularly getting bogged down or having to wade through knee deep water. Dougie’s bike was fitted with 50/50 tyres (Anakee Wild) which are not well adapted to thick mud, but they were brand new and performed surprisingly well. There were just a couple of climbs he wasn’t able to manage. My bike was fitted with proper “knobbies”, but they were well passed their best so I didn’t fare much better.

The other difference between our two bikes was the weight, Dougie’s CRF was about 150Kg and much heavier than my 105Kg KTM. For road riding this makes no difference (in fact the Honda is better) but when you have to start man handling the bike through mud and water the weight makes a big difference.

Lunch stop in Arromanches. Dougie fancied some mussels but I think they came with a curry sauce…?
This is the life, G&T in the sunshine.
Chicken, chorizo and bean stew…
Salmon and asparagus..
Normandie turned out to be a very horsey area.
The trails were VERY muddy !
It should look like this…
A Normandie Lavoir, overrun with pond weed
Very sticky mud
Cheese toasties for lunch !
Waiting for the rain to stop before heading out…
A stop off on the TET – Trans Euro Trail
We were too wet to sit inside this cafe so we stayed out in the rain…
Sheltering from a thunderstorm in the woods…
How am I going to get the bike over this fallen log ?
Tip it on it’s side and drag it over…
Dougie having a “rest” on this very slippery downhill section…
Lots of water to wade through…
Time for another “rest” on this tricky uphill.
Getting tired now…
Wish my boots were waterproof.
And they call this a trail – river more like…
Watch out Bert, I’m coming through…

And then it was all over… The next trail riding trip will be the VINCE in Spain in September. The next Old Duffers trip is planned for June next year and we are looking at exploring Ireland. As this will likely involve a fair bit of road riding, we have decided to relax the rules about “old bikes” – watch this space for more…


Montenegro 2024

Over the winter I had a call from Raytcho, one of my trail riding buddies, asking if I was interested in coming to Montenegro to do a bit of trail riding. Originally from Bulgaria he now lives in London but has a holiday home near the coast in Montenegro and likes to spend the summer there. He had been working on an idea to set up trail riding holidays using their holiday home as a base. The house is already set up for guests, having three seperate studio apartments on the ground floor : https://www.booking.com/hotel/me/apartmani-simba.en-gb.html
He had a plan to get hold of some Honda CRFs that could be used as rental bikes and the last piece of the jigsaw was to work out what routes to use, so he put out a few calls to friends to see who would be interested in helping with some scouting of trails around the area. My mate Dougie agreed to come along and planned to fly in together with his daughter Millie. I decided that driving was a better option as it seemed there might be a shortage of bikes and I always prefer to use my own bike if possible. In retrospect flying was probably the more sensible option as it took me four and a half days each way to drive with three overnight stops. On the plus side I did get to see some parts of the world that were completely new to me.

2200 Km – 4.5 days driving !

I drove through France and used the Frejus tunnel which connects France to Italy (70 Euros for the van!), across the top of Italy to Trieste. From there I had to pass through a small amount of Slovenia, where the road changed from motorway to winding A road. Then into Croatia onto a superb motorway that runs almost the length of the country. All of the above are in the EU so there were no border formalities involved. However, Montenegro is not yet in the EU, although they have adopted the Euro, which meant a 1.5 hour delay queueing to get through the border check point. You also have to switch off data roaming at this point to avoid exhorbitant charges – Raytcho was quickly able to sort out local SIM cards for us at very reasonable prices.

When I mentioned to some of my French friends that I was going to Montenegro to do some biking, the reactions were along the lines of “aren’t they still fighting ?”, “is it safe ?” and “isn’t that near Ukraine ?”. Well I can tell you that it is perfectly safe, although we did see some rather unsafe driving behaviour, and everyone we met was very friendly and welcoming.

Montenegro on the Map

We stayed close to Bar, right on the coast in the south of the country. For our scouting trips we limited ourselves to routes that were achievable in a day so that potential clients would be able to return to base every night. This ruled out much of the North of the country which would require staying overnight, but as this area is quite mountainous and there was still snow on high ground, it was the sensible option. We did go as far as Albania in the East and Bosnia in the West.
Montengro is about half the size of Wales and has about 20% of the that country’s population at 630,000 people so it is quite sparsely populated. Relative to the UK it is very mountainous – the highest we rode was 1840m, the highest point in the UK is Ben Nevis at 1345m.

En route alog the Montenegro coast road

I had brought my KTM 300 TPI, Raytcho was riding his GasGas ES700 Enduro and also had another KTM 300 and a Beta Alp available for guests to use. Dougie was hoping to be able to use a CRF250 which was also part of Raytcho’s fleet, but that had unfortunately been sold the previous week. However, once he had fiddled about with the suspension he felt reasonably happy on the KTM – apart from the piece of 2×4 that KTM call a seat. In the end Raytcho and I rode for a total of 10 days and covered 1350 Km, we were joined most days by Dougie on the KTM and some days by Millie or Raytcho and Iva’s daughter Yanna riding the Beta. The general routine was that Raytcho would work out a possible route and then we tried to follow that, making sure it was all safe and rideable and looking out for other possible trails to add in. We were using the Outdoor Active app to track our progress and that proved surprisingly accurate in identifying the difference between rideable routes and hiking routes (which were generally too difficult to ride).

We were staying in the town down below.

On the first evening our hosts suggested going out to “Starry Bar”, which I assumed was some sort of cocktail bar with a view of the night sky. It turned out to be nothing of the sort, “Bar” is the name of the neighbouring town and “Stari” means the old part of the town. In fact Bar is a fortified town and was originally built inside a walled fortress on top of a hill which is now abandoned but open to visitors.

Taking in the view from Stari Bar
Sunset over the old town.
In the mountains
Raytcho, Dougie and Millie
Picnic spot overlooking the sea

Following one of the routes, we spotted what looked like an abandoned church high on a hill so decided to go up for a closer look. Once we got there we discovered it was not abandoned at all and was in fact a working Monastery that had recently been restored from a ruin. There were five monks and an Abbot living there and one of them came out to meet us. We were a little apprehensive – four grubby bikers, parking their noisy bikes on sacred ground, but we needn’t have woried as he was extremely welcoming and took us inside for a tour of the monastery. We were very lucky to have Raytcho as our guide as there didn’t seem to be any English spoken. Even luckier when he asked us to sit down at a table outside and then brought coffee, cakes and fresh orange juice.

Millie and the Monastery

The next day Dougie and Millie chose to have a more relaxing day so Raytcho and I decided to head up into the mountains to the North on a longer ride (200Km).

Heading North from Bar it’s about 45Km of road to get to the capital of Podgorica (which also has the main airport). On the way we passed the absolutely enormous freshwater Skadar lake. Once out of Podgorica we started to climb, inially on a twisty ribbon of tarmac that resembled a go kart track which then gave way to more broken tarmac and then to a gravel trail. We could see quite a lot of snow on the higher peaks and did wonder what it would be like when we reached the top. In fact we didn’t encounter any snow until we arrived at the pass – the highest point of the ride at 1840m. It didn’t look too difficult, “How hard can it be ?” said Raytcho as he set off into the snow. He didn’t get far before the rear wheel dug in and he was stuck. Although it looked harmless the snow was quite soft and about two feet deep – the weight of the GasGas and the massive torque turned it into a trench digger. He quickly gave up and went ahead to look at what lay in store over the other side of the pass…

How hard can it be ?

There was more snow on the other side and a lot of downhill hairpins. If we did continue there would be no going back – it was bad enough making progress on the level, going uphill in the snow would have been impossible. Between us we manhandled the bike through – the trick was to get right over to the edge and pick up some grip where the snow met the gravel/rock. The KTM fared better being a lighter bike but still not easy.

Tricky downhill hairpins. No chance of getting back up here.
Made it through the snow !

We dropped down the other side to an isolated lake for a lunch stop, very glad of the picnic lunch Iva had prepared for us. The lake had several “summer houses” nearby, including Hagrid’s hut…

Hagrid wasn’t at home…
Snowy mountains

Back home safely we decided to rule out any routes going over 1800m on this trip, as there was sure to be more snow.

Waterfall up above Stari Bar
Coffee stop in Stari Bar – real coffee !
Raytcho and Yanna checking out the view
Light lunch at a delightful restaurant – and a potential reception venue for Yanna’s forthcoming wedding.
Another day, another trail and more amazing views…
Coffee stop at the appropriately named “Panorama Restaurant”

On the way home on this day we decided to pay a visit to another fortified coastal town to the South of Bar, called Ulcinj. We followed signs towards the old part and were surprised to find it was quite busy with lots of sombre looking people walking through the streets. As we weaved our noisy bikes through the throng we arrived at the front and realised we were in a funeral cortege and there was the hearse and cemetry right in front of us. Lower down in the village one of the locals on a scooter had tipped us off that motorbikes were allowed inside the old town so were fortunately able to make our escape through a hole in the defensive wall. As if we hadn’t suffered enough embarrassment we felt very conspicuous riding bikes through the very narrow cobbled streets. It was true there were a number of scooters parked in the streets, but no-one with full sized enduro bikes. We made our escape through another hole in the city wall, tails between our legs.

Bikes allowed ?
Another coffee stop with an amazing view.
We were up there yesterday…

At one of our coffee stops we checked the map to look at our options. We found a gnarly looking trail heading down the mountain that should meet up with the road further down. Raytcho and I decided to check out the trail while Dougie took a break and agreed to meet us further down the road. The trail was a beauty and we had great fun riding it and then rejoined the road to meet up with Doug. Just as we pulled up to where he was waiting for us Raytcho’s chain fell off and he lost all drive. Our first thought was that the chain had snapped but on closer inspection it appeared that the axle nut had come loose, fallen off and then the axle locating block had followed. This allowed the spindle to slide out and the wheel to twist, throwing the chain. It was very fortunate it had happened at zero speed on the road rather than on the bumpy trail we had just ridden.

Axle nut and locating block missing..

We propped the bike up and got the spindle and wheel out, fortunately there didn’t seem to be any damage. But how were we going to fix this so far from home and with limited tools ?

We left Dougie to try to improvise something while we retraced our steps along the trail to see if we could find anything. Nothing doing, so bodging was the only option. Dougie had spotted that the chain adjuster could be backed out sufficiently to support the axle in the right position, it would just need something to stop it moving backwards and on the other side something to stop the axle sliding out. We found a few scraps of material and got to work…

That should stop the axle moving back.
And that should stop it sliding out…

It was a long a slow ride home, but it all held together. A spare wheel and axle block/nut off a KTM 690 soon fixed the problem once back at base.

I managed to get in a morning run on the beach most days – we were blessed with great weather for the first ten days of the trip. It was very quiet as the town is only slowly gearing up for the season. Apparently it is heaving with people in the summer.

Morning beach run.
Up in the mountains again..
Mille and the Beta
Exploring a hill fortress
Great views in every direction from up here.
Raytcho on the skyline

On the last day before the rain arrived we went up into the hills behind Stari Bar again to try to find some rock carvings and a waterfall that Raytcho remembered from years ago. There was a monastery nearby and apparently the monks use the waterfall for baptisms. It took a long time to find as it was not marked on the map and there was no information sign.

Rock carvings.

And then it was all over… Ten days of riding and 1350 Km. We found enough routes to easily provide a week’s worth of riding for potential guests. With such mountainous terrain it seems that every track has an amazing view and you have the benefit of being by the sea as well.

My return journey followed a similar route although I did use a different tunnel through the Alps (Montblanc 55 Euros). The fuel in Montenegro and Croatia was surprisingly cheap at 1.45 per litre – I paid 2.20 at a services in Italy ! To try to avoid getting stuck again at the border Iva and Raytcho gave me a route to a smaller border crossing known only to locals. It involved a slight detour but was much quicker – no queue at all. On the Montenegro side there was just a man in a shed recording the vehicle and passport details in a hand written ledger. Of course once you enter Croatia (and the EU) it was much more professional but still very quiet. Having got used to day time temeperatures in the 20s it was a shock to get to Limoges and find it was close to freezing.

A huge thank you to Raytcho and Iva for the invitation and being perfect hosts, we thoroughly enjoyed the trip and hope to see you again very soon.